Oldest synagogue in Americas draws tourists
By Raymond Colitt
www.ezilon.com
Nov 12, 2007
A view of the reconstructed ceremony room in the historic Kahal Zur Israel
Synagogue, in the northeastern Brazilian city of Recife, in this
2005 file
handout. REUTERS/Historic Jewish Archive of Pernambuco/Handout
RECIFE (Reuters) - Flanked by bustling cafes in downtown Recife on Brazil's northeastern
coast is a little-known treasure of Jewish history in the New World -- the oldest
synagogue in the Americas.
Sephardic Jews built the two-story Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue before 1641 --
most likely in 1636 -- when they enjoyed religious freedom under the Dutch, who
ruled part of the northeast region from 1630 to 1654 to control sugar production.
The Mikve Israel Congregation in Curacao, a Dutch Antilles island in the Carribean,
was considered by some to have been the first congregation in the Americas. But
it was founded only in 1651, also by Sephardic Jews from Holland.
In the world's largest Catholic nation, whose best known icon is the Christ the
Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro, the Recife synagogue became an important symbol
of the Jewish heritage in Brazil.
Based on old maps, archaeological excavations uncovered the remnants of the synagogue,
including the original Mikvah -- a bath for religious ceremonies -- under six
layers of floors. The restored synagogue reopened in December 2001.
Since then it has become one of the main stops on the city's tourist circuit
and its archives attract scores of Brazilian and foreign historians.
Their studies are gradually unveiling the prominent role Jews had in early Brazilian
society.
"It challenges the stereotypical view that Brazilian culture is based on
a tripod of Portuguese, (native) Indians and Africans," said Tania Kaufman,
head of the Jewish Historical Archive in Recife, the capital of Pernambuco
state.
"We now know Jews were a fundamental part of Brazil's cultural melting
pot."
'ECONOMIC DOMINANCE'
Historical records in Brazil and Amsterdam show Jews helped build the sugar industry,
roads, bridges, and a basic sewage system in the northeast. Many also made money
by trading slaves.
At its height in 1645, the Jewish community in Recife counted 1,630 members,
the same number as in the thriving Jewish community of Amsterdam, according to
Dutch historian Franz Leonard Schalkwijk.
"The economic dominance of the Jews prompted various protests (from Catholics
and Protestants)," wrote Schalkwijk in his book "Church and State
in Dutch Brazil."
When Dutch rule ended in 1654, Jews were expelled, killed or forced to go into
hiding under the Roman Catholic Inquisition. One group from Recife defied storms
and pirates to reach what is today New York, where they founded the first Jewish
congregation in North America, called Shearith Israel, "the remnants of
Israel."
An exhibition entitled "Pernambuco, Brazil - a gateway to New York" stirred
much interest at the U.S. Center for Jewish History in 2004-05, recalls Kaufman.
The restored synagogue and renewed interest in the legacy of their ancestors
is reinforcing the identity of Recife's Jewish community, which has dwindled
by more than half to 300 families from two decades ago as many left for bigger
cities.
In 2005, Recife received from Israel its first permanent Rabbi since 1654.
There are four synagogues in Recife but many Jews choose to celebrate their weddings
and Bar Mitzvahs in the Kahal zur Israel because of its symbolism.
"It's an enormous source of pride," said Ivan Kelner, president of
the Israelite Federation of Pernambuco state.
The synagogue is also at the center of a broader cultural renaissance. In November
of every year, a Jewish festival offering dance, cinema, and food, from Gefilte
fish to fluden, attracts around 20,000 visitors.
"The synagogue is a symbol of the revival of Jewish culture, it has galvanized
our community," said Denys Sznejder, a choreographer who heads a Jewish
folkloric dance group in Recife.